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31
Snagging and defects / Re: Soundproofing issues in newbuilt block of flats
« Last Post by New Home Expert on February 15, 2025, 12:40:09 pm »
You have a suspended ceiling which is resilient bar type.
However, I consider that there should be some sound insulation between the concrete floor and the plasterboard ceiling.

Regarding the sound transmission test results, these are often open to interpretation.
I have heard many that do not consider "impact sound" which you seem to be suffering most, as preventable although it is to a certain extent.  Your skirting boards and plasterboard (and the flat above)  should be above the screed flooring which should help the noise.

You may have reserved your new flat after 4 October 2022 so qualify to be able to use the New Homes Ombudsman Service (such as it is). Question is, are Howarth Homes plc a registered builder with the NHOS scheme and New Homes Quality Code?

https://www.nhqb.org.uk/register-of-developers.html?q=Howarth+Homes+plc

32
Snagging and defects / Re: Soundproofing issues in newbuilt block of flats
« Last Post by West_Londoner on February 10, 2025, 04:28:33 pm »
Local Council in the planning decision ordered the enhanced soundproofing value for the impact sound noise in the floors in the noise sensitive rooms here
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Snagging and defects / Re: Soundproofing issues in newbuilt block of flats
« Last Post by West_Londoner on February 09, 2025, 10:56:09 am »
And please ignore visible on the second photo LED strip attached to the skirting board
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Snagging and defects / Soundproofing issues in newbuilt block of flats
« Last Post by West_Londoner on February 09, 2025, 10:47:22 am »
In August 2023 I bought a shared ownership brand new flat in 4 stories high building in West London under a shared ownership scheme. The flat is located on the second floor.

The Building Regulations Certificate of Compliance was issued on 17.03.2023.
I experience massive soundproofing issues. I can hear every footstep from the flat above, when the residents in the flat above press the contact switches, when their dog jumps from the sofa onto the floor, or when the dog hits surfaces with his tail greeting the residents at the door (of course I can hear when they open their door to the flat as well).
I can hear sounds of most activities from their flat. I have impression there is no soundproofing/ resilient insulation in the floor.

I have peeled off 2mm thin vinyl flooring and I have noticed it's laid directly on the screed without any underlay. The sound of walking is like hammering the pure concrete, the pre-cast concrete slabs resonate like it is a drum. What has caught my attention are strange small ramps formed in front of the balcony doors. The finished floor level inside is 25mm below the balcony decking level. I believe architects design these levels to be flush instead (inside and the outside).

Do you think the the builders (Howarth Homes PLC) deviated from the original construction drawings reducing the floor thickness, so the finished floor level inside is below the balcony decking level and hence to adjust the levels the small ramp has been formed between?

Would they omit the resilient layer, underlay or floor panels using just single 2mm vinyl flooring instead?

I have checked the void in the living room (through out the downlight cut out and in the storage which has the access hatch.) There are no rubber grommets or any absorbent layer resting on the suspended ceiling plasterboard.

The case was reported to the Enforcement Team in the local council at the end of February 2024 (and it's still under council's investigation after nearly 1 year). We don't have any updates on this case in spite of our requests for the update. I have been provided with soundproofing impact sound test by Howarth Homes PLC. All floors did pass somehow the impact sound test.

What I find strange and mysterious in the sound insulation report in the cell where the floor construction should be listed has a phrase/holder saying instead "Awaiting Details from Developer". Would they try to hide this info for a purpose? 

Due to these soundproofing issues I can't rest in my own flat, I often use earplugs during the day and unfortunately my health deteriorated. To be able to survive (until the situation improves) I've been on antidepressants since last summer and attend taking therapies. Our well-being on this development is severely affected. Can someone please look at the attachments and advise what you think went wrong in here? Thank you very much in advance for any potential advice.
35
Snagging and defects / Re: Internal Wall Tolerence
« Last Post by New Home Expert on January 18, 2025, 10:09:53 am »
36
Snagging and defects / Re: Telescopic air vent issues on self build
« Last Post by New Home Expert on January 18, 2025, 10:08:06 am »
It is NEVER a good idea to get over one bodge, by doing another bodge.
Bite the bullet, cut out brickwork and blockwork and position the air bricks correctly so they match the brick bonding.
Better to start off right.

You are correct, the gaps in the airbricks will ventilate the cavity more and the underfloor less.
Youi will get internal draughts and cold spots from this. No internal blockwork is ever fully filled joints. In addition the softer internal blocks can crack with thermal movement and let in air that way.

I would suggest you use blown fibre cavity insulation (this can be made from shredded recycled plastic bottle), done after the roof is on, but before drylining or plastering.
37
Snagging and defects / Internal Wall Tolerence
« Last Post by critterchum on January 15, 2025, 12:10:45 pm »
What is the internal finished horizontal wall tolerance from plumb corner please?
Was built in 2021, NHBC I think is saying 3mm, please confirm.
Thanks
38
Snagging and defects / Telescopic air vent issues on self build
« Last Post by Baz3986 on January 11, 2025, 08:23:31 am »
This is my first post so hopefully it makes sense.
I couldn’t find any information anywhere on this subject so decided to try open a thread and hopefully get some advice.

I’m overseeing my own build and am finding shortcuts & problems every time I look. I have discovered today that the brickies (no longer with me) have put the beam & block underfloor telescopic vents in the wrong place so the tops don’t align with the bottoms as the air bricks don’t match the brick pattern therefore the top half is offset from the bottom. This is obviously now leaving a gap at the side that will just be blowing air into the cavity, although they will still vent the sub floor.

What are the issues with this? As mentioned my sub floor will still get ventilation but my worry is that I’ll now be over ventilating the cavity and potentially causing drafts, cold spots, noise etc. which isn’t ideal as I would obviously like the house to be as energy efficient and air tight as possible.

On one elevation I can use the available extensions as this is rendered, not ideal as I’ll have unsightly vents in the bottom of the render but they’ll be doing their job correctly. This is not possible however on the facing brick section as the air bricks don’t align correctly. I’m thinking of stapling a DPC to the kit and overlaying on the vents / bricks(cavity tray) around the perimeter and this will seal the potential over ventilating at the low level. Any help or ideas are appreciated as this is causing me some stress. The new brickies are starting in 2 days so am keen to get some ideas before it’s too late.

Thanks in advance!
39
Snagging and defects / Re: New Build - External Brickwork Damp
« Last Post by New Home Expert on December 17, 2024, 07:35:57 am »
Leaking guttering, downpipe or outlet.
40
Snagging and defects / New Build - External Brickwork Damp
« Last Post by callumb4912 on December 03, 2024, 10:53:46 am »
I recently moved into my property (July 2024). Had various snags and problems etc...
Now it's got to the colder part of the year I have noticed at the rear of the property on the external wall of the house is a damp line. It doesn't seem to disappear and has been like it for 3 weeks now.
Does anyone have any ideas of what it could be?
It doesn't travel the entire way up the wall and no further marks anywhere else.
For reference this is the RHS Rear brickwork. Would be very appreciative if anyone has any ideas.

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