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General discussion / charred wood deck
« Last Post by LeonUk on September 16, 2025, 09:11:56 am »
Hi all,   :)

I recently purchased a property, and while the house is great, the decking is in pretty bad condition. It looks like it hasn’t been properly maintained, and there’s a lot of rot and wear. I’m looking to replace it myself, and I’ve been considering charred wood decking (shou sugi ban) after hearing about its durability and fire resistance.

Before I get started, I have a few questions that I hope you can help with:

How difficult is it to install charred wood decking compared to other decking materials (e.g., composite or softwood)?
I’m also concerned about the long-term maintenance — does charred wood need a lot of care, or does it last with minimal upkeep?
(was looking at something like this: https://timbersol.co.uk/product/black-spruce-decking/ )

Has anyone done a DIY project with charred wood for decking or dealt with a deck in bad condition before? Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. cheers
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Snagging and defects / Re: Brickwork Dispute
« Last Post by IronShadow on September 15, 2025, 10:13:19 pm »
I ran into something similar and ended up using surface-mount post brackets drilled into the concrete, just like others suggested. To avoid messing up the pavers, I reached out to Masonry Contractors in Carrollton to help cut a small section cleanly. It made the whole process easier and cleaner since they had the right tools for it, and I didn’t risk cracking anything.
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First of all Vincenzo18 was a link spammer and has been banned from this forum.
You will have lots hassle trying to get the builder to do remedial work outside the 2-year NHBC warranty responsibility.
As for likely cost, how long is a piece of string? No one would be able to give you a cost without visiting your property. 
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Snagging and defects / Re: Brickwork Dispute
« Last Post by LeonUk on September 10, 2025, 11:47:28 am »
It sounds like the use of engineering bricks is a standard practice in some builds, but I agree that the quality and execution here seem subpar.
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General discussion / Re: Floor plans changes
« Last Post by LeonUk on September 09, 2025, 09:40:13 am »
Thanks for sharing your experience. I can see how smaller details like a feature wall could be worked around, but with something as big as an en-suite it feels like a much more fundamental change to the house type. From what I’ve read (and from the advice here), the original floor plans/brochures are treated as part of the sales information, so removing the en-suite without agreement isn’t something the builder should just quietly do.
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Snagging and defects / Re: Brickwork Dispute
« Last Post by IronShadow on September 07, 2025, 12:52:51 pm »
Btw, I learned that some developers use engineering bricks at the bottom rows as standard practice, but the way yours looks in the photos does seem poorly done compared to others
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Snagging and defects / Re: Brickwork Dispute
« Last Post by IronShadow on September 03, 2025, 10:00:46 pm »
I used galvanized post bases bolted into the concrete between pavers, then ran 4x4s up with brackets—worked fine without touching the stucco and kept everything solid and lined up.
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Snagging and defects / Re: Poor wall sound insulation
« Last Post by Vincenzo18 on August 28, 2025, 03:03:25 pm »
I moved into a new build flat 19 months ago I am having a complete nightmare experience with my neighbour next door with loud music, parties, foul language, arguments etc. Basically I hear everything even when he is talking at a low level or playing music at a low level it is as if he is my bedroom with me. The flat has been designed so that my bedroom backs onto his living room! I'm getting no sleep at all have been through mediation you name it i've done it. However he remains unreasonable. Ok that's my moan.. here goes the question:

The flat belongs to a housing association and they have offered me the opportunity to buy it. I am reluctant because I believe the party wall is not properly insulated. They development office sent me the sound insulation certificate which as you guessed it shows that it was sound tested according to so called 'building regulations.' Since all the flats only had a one year defect that year has elapsed therefore technically I am being told there is nothing I can do; I don't believe that and I am determined to take this further if need be for my own sanity. But I need help who do I go to? What do I do? Should I insist the housing association re test the sound?  Is there any law I could quote to them? Can I contact NHBC?

I don't want to cause any problems with the building company as I had lots of  snagging defect problems mostly minor and the contact who dealt with it was brilliant. But this partition wall is a major problem. I  have also been told that lots of party walls in new builds are not always inspected to insure the insulation has been done properly as there are just too many. Is that true? Please please can someone help?? Sorry this has been a long one :D
Ik this is a really old post, but i’m replying because poor sound insulation in flats hasn’t gone away, if anything, it’s become a bigger issue in the years since you wrote this, and a lot of people still land in the same situation. What often gets missed in these conversations is that compliance on paper doesn’t always mean performance in practice: tests can be carried out on sample walls that aren’t necessarily identical to yours, and workmanship on site plays a huge role. Even if the certificate looks fine, one missing strip of acoustic sealant or a small gap around a socket box can make the wall behave like it has no insulation at all.

If anyone else ever ends up reading this thread in the same spot, don’t stop at the builder’s certificate, push for an independent acoustic survey on your specific flat. That’s the only way to get measurable evidence of whether the wall actually meets the spec, and it gives you leverage if you want the housing association or NHBC to take action. Might be useful for someone
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Thanks it sounds like you know about the building trade really well. The wall isn't insulated, but you have shared some important details. Please advise how I go about getting this arranged and what you think it may cost. Would this be the full responsibility of the home builder?
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I am new to the forum.
I would like to get some advice from those who experience a lack of noise insulation in flats that are coming from walls made out of plasterboard and not brick built.
I have contacted the home builder, and sent a video of clip of how the walls are not insulated properly.
It is so bad that you can easily hear and be affected by someone closing their car or van doors, and even more so when someone is closing their flat door gently. This has a thumping sound effect and it feels like driving over a deep pothole at over 50 mph. This is really damaging to anyone's health.

Please see attachment of a short video clip of myself lightly tapping the wall. Imagine if someone had closed their flat door strongly the whole room would shake and cause a bad lasting effect.

The home builder doesn't want to visit my property and they have denied about the lack of wall insulation, where I requested for them to use a stronger material to not absorb noise anymore. The warranty limit shouldn't be their excuse.
I would like to get some possible solutions. It's like you have to wear a crash helmet when living in this type of property.
Thanks!
What you’re describing is classic structure borne drum from a lightweight timberframe/dot anddab wall, not just missing insulation. Pop a socket and borescope a bay to confirm mineral wool and look for unsealed penetrations/back boxes, there’s usually no resilient bar and the cavity is coupling to the frame, which is why door slams outside feel like a pothole. The fix that actually works is an independent lining:
A free-standing 70–90 mm metal stud set 10–20 mm off the wall, 50–60 kg/m3 mineral wool in the new frame, two layers of 15 mm acoustic board with a damping layer between, Green Glue type, all perimeters sealed and putty pads on boxes, mass alone won’t kill the 80–120 Hz thump
Get an ANC/IOA airborne/impact test against Approved Doc E
A fail gives leverage with the builder, a pass points to flanking so you target that lining on the worst elevations. Cheap proof-of-concept: temporarily batten one bay and add 18 mm ply + MLV
If the thump drops, the full independent wall will solve it
Hopefully this helps as much as it helped me once
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